The Ultimate Guide to Computer Refurbishing

by Howard Fosdick,  New for 2025 © RexxInfo.org  --   Share this under the open source CC-BY-ND license. (Please do not alter contents.)




This free guide tells you how refurbish mature computers, step by step.

So you can make that computer gathering dust in your garage or attic useful again.

If you don't have a computer to refurbish, here is how get one -- usually for free.

Assuming the computer you'll refurbish was made after about 2010, we'll build a fully capable machine for typical home or office use. (See this article to refurbish older computers.)

These computers are what I use myself, as a computer professional, and the same I've built for many others.

So, here are the "trade secrets" I've learned in twenty years of computer refurbishing.


This is the agenda --

Read This First

Step 1: Identify Hardware and Clean the Insides

Your first step in computer refurbishing has two goals:

Ensure the computer is OFF and unplugged.

Then ground yourself before you touch the computer's insides, as explained above. Now open up your computer.

Your first task is give the machine(s) a thorough cleaning. Since you can't safely rub electronics with a rag or cloth -- that might generate static electricity -- use a can of compressed air to blow out all the dust and dust bunnies. Or delicately use a soft-bristle brush.

Be sure you clean the CPU complex, all circuitry, computer fans, the power supply area, the air vents, and anywhere else dust could accumulate.

Cleaning is vital because heat is what kills electronics. And when dust covers circuitry or clogs vents, extra heat is the result.

Cleaning is especially important for laptops. Many are discarded due to overheating that their owners don't know how to recognize and fix. You're going to fix that and get a free laptop in exchange.

Cleaning Out the Dust Extends the Life of the Computer    (Courtesy: ScienceABC.com)

Once you've thoroughly cleaned, you want to identify all the hardware you have. Write down the information from the disk drive label(s), the motherboard label, the kinds of memory, how many memory sticks there are and how many slots are open, if there are any desktop cards added, and any other hardware characteristics you can.

You'll notice immediately what devices each computer has. And if any devices or cables are missing. This is why my article How to Get a Free Computer urges you to acquire a couple used computers. It sometimes takes two or even three old computers to create a single complete one with all necessary components.

Step 2: The Build

Assuming you picked up a couple computers, now is the time to compare their hardware. Then you can select the best one to build up.

You may wish to transfer some parts from the other computers into your "build machine." Ideally, I like to build a computer with a minimum of 4 gigabytes of memory and a disk drive for storage.

Here's an example of how this works. Once I picked three similar desktops. Two had 4 gigabytes of memory, and the third had no memory at all. Only the one without memory had a disk drive. So I consolidated all the memory and the disk into the computer with the most powerful processor. This created a single very capable computer.

For desktops, you'll find that many parts are interchangeable across a wide range of computers. Display monitors, disks, insertable cards, power supplies, keyboards, mice, speakers, headphones, fans, disk cables, power cords, and power strips are examples. And usually memory -- if the computers were manufactured in the same "memory era" (see the table below).

Laptops have fewer shareable parts since everything is crammed into a small proprietary case. But disk drives are usually interchangeable between them, as are external items like headphones, thumb drives, and external disk drives. Memory is usually transferrable between machines of the same memory era.

If you pick up a free or discarded laptop, be sure you grab its power adapter, too! That's much easier than trying to find a matching one later.

Laptop power adapters are proprietary to specific vendors. However, they often work across the different laptops made by the same manufacturer. (In the worst case scenario, you can buy a "universal power adapter" that works with almost any laptop for about $20 USD.)

Memory

Memory is one resource that really distinguishes computer generations. You have to match up the notches on the memory sticks to the open slots on the motherboard that you insert the memory into. This photo shows how desktop memory generations are defined by their notch locations:

Some vendors clearly mark their memory by the "DDR" number. Others use "module names", so the above chart includes them so that you can decode the kind(s) of memory sticks you have.

It's sometimes helpful to look up memory sticks online first before you insert them into position. The Kingston and Crucial websites are especially useful for this. You enter the make and model of your computer, and those websites recommend which memory sticks will work.

They'll also tell you the maximum allowable memory for your computer. You don't have to buy anything to use these free memory analysis tools.

When inserting memory, if a stick doesn't fit in one direction, try inserting it the opposite direction. You may have just had the stick reversed.

If the stick still doesn't fit, don't force it. The notches are there to prevent you from placing the wrong memory into the computer!

In general, if a memory stick fits the slot, it should work. But there are some exceptions. That's why those online memory advisors can be helpful.

You can always take an experimental approach. If a memory stick fits into a slot, it won't hurt anything to try it and see if it works.

Mixing memory of different speeds or from different manufacturers runs the risk of running all the memory at the speed of the slowest stick. But in practice you probably won't notice any difference.

For photos and more details about how to insert memory, click here. For more about memory compatibility, click here.

Disks

Be sure to properly connect your internal hard disk drive (HDD) or solid state disk (SSD). Each needs two connectors going into it.

One is a plug that connects to the computer's power supply. The other is a cable with smaller end plugs -- it's the data transfer cable. It connects from the back of the disk to a data plug on the motherboard.

On laptops you merely push the disk drive in so that it backs into the required connectors.

On rare occasions you may run into a situation where the thickness of the drive determines whether it will fit into your laptop.

If the drive is too thin, you can often make up the difference just by taping an old credit card (or similar plastic card) to the bottom of the disk. The tighter fit helps ensure that the connectors fit snugly and securely. If the drive is too thick, you have no recourse but to find another drive.

For photos and more details about how to connect disks, click here.

Build Advice

For more detailed information on how to work with your memory, disks, or other hardware, get my free companion guide How to Fix Computer Hardware. Its photos show how to work with individual components, and it can help you solve nearly any problem you run into.

Leftovers

After you're done creating your build machine, what should you do with the computers that are left over? Perhaps you can make another functional computer with them. Or, just use them for parts. In the worst case, you can always give them to a certified electronics recycler.

Step 3: Verify That All Hardware Works

Once you've created your build computer, you need to verify that all the hardware works.

It's essential to do a very thorough job of this. There's nothing worse than being further along and then finding out that something doesn't work because you didn't test it enough now. That can really waste your time.

You need to test all the computer's parts:

Most computers have built-in diagnostic capabilities that enable you to test many components. You access them through the Configuration or Setup panels. These are also referred to as the UEFI panels (which some still refer to by their old name as the BIOS panels).

You press a specific key while the computer boots to access the Configuration panels. The brand of computer determines which key that is. Normally it is either F1, F2, F10, F12, DEL, or ESC. Most computers will display which during the boot process.

If you don't know which key it is, look up the proper key for your computer in this chart of boot keys. Or, you can hit a slew of the keys I just listed and it's likely you'll get in.

Once you're in the Configuration panels, you should be able to run diagnostics to verify most major components.

You'll also be able to view hardware information about the processors, memory, disks, devices, and more. Plus you can set various hardware configuration parameters.

Setup panels vary by manufacturer. Here are two typical examples. You can see how they let you gather hardware information and set hardware operating parameters.

In the example with the blue panel, the diagnostic tests you want to run are gathered under the label PC Health Status.

If the Configuration panels don't include diagnostics to test all the hardware, you can download free bootable test kits like Hiren's Boot CD or the Ultimate Boot CD.

These contain complete sets of diagnostics. Both boot independently of any operating system, as a standalone "Live USB" or "Live DVD".

(Here's how to create a Live USB. And here's what to do it fails to boot your older computer.)

Use the Ultimate Boot CD to Test ALL Hardware Components    (Courtesy: UltimateBootCD.com)

If you find any problems during diagnostics, most are easy to fix. See How to Fix Computer Hardware.

Step 4: Determine Your Strategy for Booting, Storage, and Backups

To this point, you've built a computer with sufficient resources (memory and devices) and you've verified that all this hardware works. Now you need to figure out your storage strategy for the computer. You need to answer three questions:

Common Strategies for Booting, Storage, and Backup    (Courtesy: H. Fosdick)

Many older computers were designed for booting and storage with a hard disk drive (HDD).

Or perhaps your computer has a more recent solid state disk (SSD) instead. That's much faster than an HDD. Its speed is especially welcome with mature hardware that may underperform in other areas like processing speed or memory access.

Maybe whoever discarded the computers you picked up yanked out all their disks and you don't have a single drive! In this case, you can go back to scrounging for what you're missing.

Or select one of these alternatives:

Let's discuss these options.

Option 1: Buy a HDD

HDDs generally offer more storage at lesser cost than SSDs -- but SSDs are much faster. New HDDs are down to $25 USD these days for the lesser capacities.

Option 2: Buy a SSD

SSDs cost more per byte than HDDs but their faster speed can really aid performance for a mature computer. Some now sell new for as little as $25 USD.

If you're refurbishing a desktop, consider buying a 2.5" laptop-sized disk. They weigh less and can be more easily mounted on many systems with a single screw, without worrying about how they fit into proprietary disk cages.

Both HDDs and SSDs fit into the same enclosure in laptops.

Option 3: Use USB Memory Sticks

You could forgo disk drives altogether and use a USB thumb drive to boot and store data. This strategy assumes your computer will boot from the USB drive. (Most will if they're less than 15 years old, but you'll have to test it and see. Be sure to check the Configuration Panels to ensure your computer will boot from a USB port).

This strategy can be useful if you have no HDDs or SSDs available and would prefer to use a USB at hand rather than scrounge for or buy a disk drive.

To make this work, you'll need to select an operating system that supports persistence -- the ability to store its state on the USB drive across sessions. We'll discuss this later.

If you opt for the USB-only strategy, be aware that there are huge differences in USB data transfer speeds. A fast port and fast USB drive will greatly improve overall performance:

USB Speeds Vary Enormously    (Courtesy: H. Fosdick at OpenSource)

To optimize speed, you need to verify the speeds of both your USB port and the USB thumb drive you use. If there's a mismatch, everything will still work just fine. But the data transfer speed you'll get will be the lower of the two.

You can upgrade USB port speeds for a desktop by installing a fast USB port card. New, these cost $20 USD or less. For the USB thumb drive itself, pay attention to which USB standard it meets.

Backups

Be sure you've also decided to what device you'll back up your data. Data backups are absolutely essential in case your primary storage device fails! So be prepared in advance. Your data backup must go to a different device than that used for your primary data storage.

Optical Drives

Older computers sometimes include an optical disc drive. Should you keep it?

Some people retain them for use with their libraries of films or music. Others see no use for them. (Modern computers no longer come with optical drives because modern removable USB thumb drives hold more data, transfer data faster, and don't get scratched up.)

Removing an optical drive frees up a set of disk connectors and some cabinet space, as well as improving airflow. Keep the optical drive if you'll use it, otherwise remove it.

Step 5: Prepare the Disk

If you decided to reuse either an existing HDD or SSD, you have to prepare the disk for use. (I assume you've already thoroughly tested the disk to ensure that it's working without error.)

Now you need to completely erase the disk. This is vital because you don't know what's on there, and you could be held responsible for it someday. For example, the disk could contain illegally pirated software, stolen films, hacked data, underage pornography, or literally anything.

Do not try to save the old Windows software on the disk! You want to run a modern, currently-supported operating system, not an obsolete one vulnerable to viruses and malware.

Plus, only by erasing the entire disk can you be certain that you've got nothing bad left on there.

To Erase an HDD

Download and run a free tool like DBAN or a competitor. These programs overwrite the entire disk and thereby destroy all its data. Many of these programs run as a stand-alone bootable USB (a "Live USB") or DVD.

The diagnostic packages mentioned earlier -- Ultimate Boot CD and Hirens Boot CD -- both contain DBAN and similar disk wiping tools.

"Disk wiping" programs usually have options for either light wiping (faster) or more thorough wiping (slower). To ensure the data is truly unretrievable, use the thorough settings. This often runs for hours -- it depends on your disk's size and speed. You may find it convenient to run a thorough wipe overnight.

To Erase an SSD

An HDD erase tool will not adequately erase an SSD! You need a different kind of tool called a secure erase.

Some computers come with an secure erase utility in their UEFI/BIOS panels. All you have to do is access the boot configuration panels to run it. It will usually be labelled something like "ATA Secure Erase."

The other option is the website of the disk manufacturer. Most offer free downloads of secure erase utilities for their SSDs.

If the vendor doesn't provide a secure erase utility for drive, your only option may be to purchase a tool like Parted Magic for only about $15 USD. Or, find another disk.

Step 6: Select Software

With all the hardware in order, it's time to select the software you'll use.

You need two kinds of software:

Most Linux distributions (or products) bundle both. That is, by virtue of installing the distro you get both a complete operating system and a full set of applications. These apps fulfill any typical home or office use of the computer.

All this software is free. There are no Activation Keys or licensing restrictions to worry about.

To choose the appropriate Linux distribution for your computer, analyze your computer's power.

With an Intel i-series processor and 4 gigabytes of memory or more, you have the power needed to run almost any Linux distribution. Products like MX Linux, Linux Mint, and Ubuntu are quite popular. You can run just about any desktop environment (graphical user inteface) you like.

With 2 to 4 gigabytes of memory, you have to be a judicious in your memory use. A distribution with a lightweight graphical interface would be best, because GUIs are known for their heavy resource consumption.

Good choices are Linux distros with a desktop environments like XFCE and LXQt. I've had good experiences with Linux Mint/XFCE. There are many fine alternatives.

Lightweight or Ultra-light GUIs Work Better on Older Computers    (Courtesy: H. Fosdick)

If your computer has even less memory, go for an "ultra-light" Linux distribution. This should probably also be your choice if you have an old dual-core CPU.

For these computers, I've found both antiX and Puppy Linux excellent. Not only do they consume less computer resources, they also support older computers. They can help with issues like CPUs that don't have all the newer capabilities, older devices, older BIOS, and more.

antiX and Puppy bundle low-resource apps. Their graphical interfaces are ultra-light windows managers, instead of full-fledged desktop environments. Their only downside is that their user interfaces are a tad less user-friendly than those of bulkier Linux distributions.

What if you have a computer that boots off a slow device -- like an old HDD, slow USB, or optical drive -- but has lots of memory? You can set up antiX or Puppy to load itself into memory and run from there. This increases performance for operations that will otherwise be slowed down by a sluggish device.

To sum up:

• If you have a multicore processor and at least 4 gigabytes of memory, you can run almost any Linux distribution.
• If you have a multicore processor and at least 2 gigabytes of memory, try a lightweight distribution with a lightweight GUI.
• If you have a dual core processor or 2 gigabytes or less of memory, try an ultralight distribution with a windows manager interface.

Ultimately, each of us has different goals and tasks that we perform. The only way to know which Linux distro is best for you is to try them yourself.

USB-only systems

As mentioned earlier in the section on "Determine Your Strategy for Booting, Storage, and Backups", if you go diskless and use a USB thumb drive to boot your system and for data storage, you'll want a distro that requires very little space. After all, you'll want space left over on your USB for data storage.

antiX can boot from a Live USB in 2 gigabytes, while Puppy requires less than 1 gig.

Another trick is to use one USB drive for booting and the operating system, and a second one for storing your personal data.

For the USB-only strategy, you'll require an operating system that supports persistence. This is where the OS stores its state on the pen drive across boots (sessions). Both antiX and Puppy support persistence, as do many other distributions.

Laptops

Since heat is the killer of old laptops, be sure to install a temperature monitor program. Examples are PSensor, XSensors, and Lm-sensors. Use the monitor to ensure that temperatures are not getting too high, and that all fans are spinning properly.

This helps you fix all those laptops that are discarded due to overheating. For more help on how to fix overheating, read this.

Step 7: Install the Software

To install your software, you create a "Live USB", a USB thumb drive that boots the operating system you want to install. Then you start up the computer with it, and follow its installation instructions.

Before you try booting, check the target computer's Configuration panels. Verify that USB Boot is enabled, that the USB drive is listed as the first or default boot option, and that SECURE BOOT is OFF.

When viewing the Configuration panels, you might discover that your old computer doesn't support a Live USB. In this case, you'll need to create a "Live DVD" and boot off that. Set the Configuration panels to recognize your DVD as its first boot choice.

For a step-by-step explanation on how to create a Live USB or DVD, see this brief tutorial.

If Live Booting Fails

You created a "Live USB" or "Live DVD" -- and it doesn't boot! The computer sits there dead. What do you do?

First check whether the USB port you used is dead. Plug some other USB device into there to see if the computer recognizes it. Then verify that the USB thumb drive you're using is good. Plug it into another machine to see if it is recognized and its files can be read.

If both the USB port and stick are good, the most likely explanation is a firmware mismatch. That is, there are two standards on how to create a bootable USB: the current UEFI standard, and the older legacy BIOS standard.

You have to match the Live USB and the target computer to use the same standard (either both use UEFI or both use BIOS). Otherwise, the boot could fail.

The target computer's Configuration panels might give you a choice between UEFI and BIOS firmware for booting. Try setting it to the opposite value and boot again.

(UEFI is usually called UEFI or Default booting in Configuration panels, while BIOS is often denoted by the terms BIOS, legacy boot, Compatibility Support Module, or CSM.)

Alternatively, you can leave the computer's Configuration unchanged, and instead create a Live USB to match the Configuration panel's standard. A free tool like Rufus lets you do this. If you still have problems, here's a complete discussion that explains several solutions.

Step 8: Browse Efficiently

Congratulations, you now have a fully capable computer!

One last topic is important.

The manner in which you browse the web can have a huge impact on your computer's responsiveness.

Good browsing practices can make even an old computer feel snappy. Browse without giving thought to this, and you could really bog down your machine.

Here are tips for efficient browsing:

Individually, each of these tips has little impact. However, as a group they can make a huge difference in how you experience the web when using a mature computer.

Conclusion

After you do a few builds, you'll probably shift around the ordering of some of the steps I've outlined here. But that's the gist of it.

Anyone can build a free computer if they know how to go about it. I hope this article has given you the information you need to do exactly that.

This complete free guide provides more detailed information when working with hardware -- How to Fix Computer Hardware.

Here's How to Get a Free Computer or free parts.

Related Articles

You may also be interested in --

Linux articles --

Other topics --

Contact / Feedback

Please send any recommendations for improving this article --> gibberish@gmail.com webmasterA an-at-sign-goes-here RexxInfo a-period-goes-here org more-gibberish@aol.com. Thank you.

No Warranty

The information and links in this document are are provided "as is" and without any express or implied warranties of any kind whatsover. Use of this document constitutes your agreement to this statement of No Warranty and that you perform any activities solely at your own risk.

-----------------------------------

====>  Like this free article? Please spread the link love to Slashdot, LXer, or your favorite social media. Thank you.